Hello!
Well these past two weeks have been a whirl-wind. You can read up on my last two weeks of practicum here & here.
I arrived in Africa as a student nurse, but I am a student no more! It is an awesome celebration that our trip to Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls...Livingstone) - or also known as "The Smoke That Thunders" - was pushed back to the end of our practicum.
We arrived in Livingstone on Wednesday night. Early yesterday morning (Thursday) we were picked up at our hostel for an overnight safari in Botswana... I've loved Africa since my first trip in 2008, but I find all to often when telling others about my passion and enthusiasm for Africa that they reply "I just don't have any desire to travel there". Hopefully this post can provide some insight as to part of the reason (outside the amazing people) I just freaking love this continent.
Once crossing the river that borders Zambia and Botswana, we quickly make our way to Chobe National Park. Chobe has no gate surrounding it's border, so the animals are free to come and go as they please. Our safari tour guides (Lance and Leo), introduce themselves and immediately start joking around about how we will not see any elephants - one of the main big game animals we want to see! Our first stop is a river cruise. As we head down stream, on the left is Botswana - with beautiful, lush trees and rolling hills. On our right, Namibia, flat plains as far as your eyes can focus. The variety between the two countries is stunning, only divided by a deep blue river - filled with hippos, crocodiles, and elephants swimming. Overhead, a river eagle soars past. In the quiet, you can hear the hippos communicating, and the wild, majestic elephants trumpet and playfully roll in the mud at the waters edge. After our boat ride, it's time for a game drive until we reach our campsite.
As the day goes on, we are lucky enough to see hundreds [- yes hundreds!] of these beautiful animals who have no enemies once full grown. Lance tells us, "there are plus or minus approximately 100,000 within the park. Many herds we come across have 15-20 elephants. The babes of the group are protectively surrounded by the protective full grown adults, the calfs would not notice any danger as they are too preoccupied wrestling each other. In the later afternoon, we approach the rivers edge - this time from land. Silence fills the vehicle. Immediately in front of us (only a few metres) is another giant herd of elephants. This time, there beauty is silhouetted by the shimmering and sparkling water. The giant grandmother, and leader of the group, follows behind the masses and directs where she wants them to go. But that's not all... as far as we can see down the river's bends, pairs, herds, and solo elephants are also approaching the riverbank. I can not describe this sight. It was as if we walked into a fantasy world, and we were the only humans in existence.
As the afternoon continues, we witness numerous impala, baboons, buffalo, several giraffes, and alone old male kudu. The landscape changes from riverbank to stretching plains, and back. In almost each direction we look, there is either an elephant or group of impalas. But we are getting anxious, there is hope to see a lion, but the evening will come quick. Our guide lets us know that there are only about four prides in the park. Anticipation continues to grow, it is against park law to be driving after the sun goes down, around 18:30hr. If we are stuck out past dark and caught, Lance will lose his guiding license. But, it's easy to be distracted by the stunning evening light. Dead trees, scattered among the living, make a gorgeous contrast of black, against the warm, glowing orange sky. In what appears to be the last few minutes before dark, we come across a giant herd of buffalo, grazing alongside impala. The sunset gives their large horns the appearance of a violet glow. Alas, it's getting too dark, we must hasten to our camp. The entire sky is now the colour of fire, and the moon is starting to glow.
We hear chatter on the radio, all of a sudden we are pedal to the metal. We hold on for dear life, bouncing off the seats in every direction. Slamming breaks to avoid the impala in the middle of the road, and racing again. It is getting darker. We come around the corner and the other jeep is parked down the road. As we approach our pace slows. Separating the two vehicles, a male lion laying in the middle of the road. His brother, just off to the side in the grass. We can hear faint roars from a distance, the other members of there pride near the water, out of our view. The guide informs our group that this is the first time he has seen male lions in two months. We are cautioned to move extremely slow, stay silent, and ensure our limbs are in the vehicle - unless we want to lose them. He tells us to only take pictures, as we move forward inch, by inch. The male sprawled on the road tenses up, he stares us in the eye, and begins to quickly softly roar, almost like a woof. We stop. This is as close as we will get, a mere meter and a half away. If he wanted, he could quickly attack in one pounce. All our trust is in our guides as the hairs on the back of our neck ride. Goosebumps form. I fall back in love with Africa for the umpteenth time. This must be a dream... After what feels forever, but realistically is a few minutes, the lion rises. We can see every muscle in his body with all it's strength and he walks further down the road. What an epic end to our 5 hour game drive. It's time to hurry to camp, and hope we are not seen. We should arrive at our tents by now.
Very soon, within few mere kilometers of the lions, we approach a campground with several two person tents. One of the first things we notice - there is no fence. Lance and Leo tell us to hasten and put out gear in a tent, then come back around the fire. Once that is done they caution us to not go further then a few steps past the tents. We are told that after we go to bed, it is important that we stay in our tents, no matter what we may hear. Many animals could walk by, and the lions are active at night. Nervous glances are exchanged between the 11 new nurses. We are the largest, all-female group that the company has had stay on an overnight safari. Our numbers do not give us courage.
The campfire glows. I hear a rustle in the bush and tell the girls to be silent. Our headlamps are directed towards the noise, just behind Maggie and I's tent. Two ivory tusks glow vivid and bright. An elephant herd is in our camp... We stand in shock. Here, it's not IF we are visited by the wild animals, but by who, and when. As the straggling elephant makes his way, we sigh in unison of relief. I look to the sky. The moons light glows, scattering light off the surrounding tree branches. I have never seen the stars so bright. It's just us, and the wild. The late-night beauty is enchanting and 11 mesmerized ladies sit in silence. This is yet another reason why I love Africa.
I am awaken from my dreams by a thunderous string of roars. It must be around 01:00hr. Laying inside our tent we stay still. Hairs rise on the back of my neck as the lions roar continue for a little over an hour. Thankfully, it seems to be getting further away. Just as I'm about to fall back asleep, footsteps are heard in the camp. This is followed by warning calls of the birds resting above. The front of our tent is mesh, and the night sky has lightened up the area. I see nothing, but can hear something. This is SUREAL!
Suddenly, it's 05:45hr and our guides are telling us it is time to wake. Swiftly, breakfast is had and we are on our way back out of the park. Another giraffe standing lone and tall, illuminated by the sunrise looks like a statue in the plain. Playful baboons are seen all around. As we near the park boundary there is a massive dead tree full of vultures, signalling a fresh kill. All to soon, we arrive at the docks. A boat now takes us back to Zambia.
Next stop, one of the natural wonders of the world...
The Smoke That Thunders.
Xx
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| I could not zoom my lens out any further. |
